Matera Recommendations
This is by no means a comprehensive guide to everything there is to do in Matera. These are just the things I have done or plan to do on my next trip.
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Introduction
Matera was high on my list of places to see during my gap year in Italy. All I had to do was watch No Time to Die to see that I too wanted to get chased through the ancient city on a motorcycle by an Italian with a bad haircut after a drive along the Basilicata coastline in an Aston Martin DB85 with a beautiful French woman. If you can relate to this, read on for my Matera recommendations.
While the precise origin is debated, Matera, specifically the Sassi (the cave dwellings) is one of the oldest and longest continuously-inhabited cities in the world. That was at least until the 1950s, when the poverty and disease-stricken caves abandoned. Now, it’s become a popular tourist destination and in 2019 was named a European Capital of Culture, and many of the cave dwellings are being converted into unique B&B’s and hotels for tourists.
Getting to Matera
Most people going to Matera will be coming from Bari. Here’s how I would get to Bari:
- Rome to Bari – buy tickets here
- Naples to Bari – buy tickets here
- Salerno to Bari (if coming from Amalfi Coast) – buy tickets here
Matera itself can be accessed by train, though not Trenitalia. Instead it is accessed by Ferrovie Appulo Locane (FAL). You can buy tickets online or at the station, which is attached to Bari Centrale just past the KFC.
You need to go from Bari Centrale to Matera Centrale. If you buy the ticket online, you’ll see two train numbers separated by a slash. This means that you need to take two trains, with a change in Altamura.
Now – I should say, on my trip back to Bari, I was supposed to change trains in Altamura, but we (myself and fellow passengers) were told to just stay on the same train, which did end up getting us to Bari Centrale.
In other words, the train from Bari to Matera can run a little off-script, so your passengers and train staff are your friends. English is not so common this far south, but if you can find some under 30 year olds and tell them you need to get to Matera, they will help.
Where to Stay In Matera
For booking accommodations, my go-to services are Hostelworld and Booking.com.
If you’re looking for a hostel, at the time of this writing there is only one option, Fra I Sassi Hostel. I happened to walk by it while I was in Matera and it’s in a great location, but I did not stay there.
The city of Matera is quite small and is composed mainly of the modern portion of the city, and the more picturesque Sassi di Matera. I suggest you find a place located on (or in?) the Sassi, as far west as Matera Centrale railway station. This will ensure you’re within a 10 minute walk of just about everything interesting. I stayed next to Cattedrale di Maria Santissima della Bruna e Sant’Eustachio (that rolls off the tongue), and would recommend this area to others.
Things to Do in Matera
Matera is a peaceful city, so I would keep it simple. Do a tour, try some local food, walk around and take in the beauty. Just relax. Don’t over-book yourself.
Tours
My go to places for tours are GetYourGuide and Viator.
I did this tour which was amazing value. My guide was so knowledgeable and passionate about the history of the city, and we got to go in some of the old cave homes.
Hike
I hiked to Chiesa Rupestre di Madonna delle Tre Porte, because it was just too enticing not to, and the view from that side of the Gravina is incredible. It can be accessed via the Ponte Tibetano della Gravina (suspension bridge).
Just Walk Around
Matera is a place where you can just wander the city streets and be amazed. During the day, visit the Church of Saint Mary of Idris, the church built into the rocky hilltop of the sassi.
Where to Eat and Drink in Matera
Restaurants
Taverna La Focagna – This was locally recommended and for good reason. We’re not far from Puglia, home of the pasta known as orecchiette, or “little ears”, so take advantage of it. Pepperoni cruschi (dried red peppers) is a common addition to lots of dishes in this region, so make sure that’s part of the dish.
Zio Ninì – This was a casual, quaint restaurant close to where I was staying. I’m a sucker for bruschetta, which turned out perfectly here. More pepperoni cruschi here.
La Grotta Del Gusto – Locally recommended (but not tried by me unfortunately)
Bars
Terrazza Cavaliere – a standard Italian bar with coffee, beer, wine, sandwiches, etc. The main selling point here is the terrace view, which is worth the slightly higher-than-normal prices.
Birrificio 79 – a popular local spot for live music and craft beer.
1806 Café – a solid cocktail bar
Dessert
Pasthello – on my way out of Matera I stopped here. They have some impressive desserts and gelato.
That’s All For Now
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