How to Spend 4 Days in Cinque Terre (From Someone Who Stayed for 6)
Most people breeze through Cinque Terre in a day or two. I stayed six. That gave me time to slow down, try things twice, and skip the spritz-soaked circus of Portofino in favor of somewhere that actually felt like Italy. If you’ve got four nights in this part of Liguria, here’s how to use them well — including why I’d base yourself in Monterosso, the only town where you don’t have to drag your suitcase up 300 stairs.
We went in the first week of April.
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When to Go to Cinque Terre
My sister and I went the first week of April. The water was barely warm enough to swim, but the beach was open and relaxed — no grid of umbrellas, no crowd control.
If you go during summer, it’s a different scene. The beach turns into a patchwork of rented chairs and designated sections. Unless you’re paying for a spot, you’ll likely be stuck finding scraps of free sand — if any. This setup is unfortunately common in coastal Italy, especially in places that rely heavily on seasonal tourism. Just something to be aware of if a spontaneous beach afternoon is part of your plan.
Why Monterosso Is the Best Home Base
Monterosso is the flattest of the five villages — no endless staircases to your hotel. It also has the biggest beach, plenty of food options, and quick train access to the other towns (each just about six minutes away).
📍 Planning to stay in Monterosso al Mare? I stayed here during my trip and absolutely recommend it. It’s walking distance to everything — including a few of the streets that were turned into movie sets.
Day 1 – Arrival + Monterosso
Check in, unpack, decompress. Walk the beach promenade and stretch your legs along the Ligurian Sea.
If you’re up for it, walk up to the Cimitero di Monterosso and the Convent of the Capuchin Friars for panoramic views that feel like you stumbled into a painting.
While the sun’s out, grab an aperitivo with a sea view at Torre Aurora.
Dinner options? Try La Taverna or Da Eraldo. Both are in Monterosso al Mare and have good reputations for a reason. Da Eraldo has a more quaint vibe with outdoor seating.
Day 2 – Hike to Vernazza + Sunset Boat
Start the day with a hike on the coastal trail from Monterosso to Vernazza (~1.5 hours). You’ll need a €7.50 trail pass — yes, it’s part of the Cinque Terre National Park.
When you arrive in Vernazza, track down La Focacceria da Paolo for a piece of millefoglie. They also have a location in Portovenere. I’ve had a lot of Italian desserts over the years. This is one of the best.
Take the train back to Monterosso and freshen up.
Book a sunset boat tour that departs from Monterosso (book here). This is the best way to see the villages from the water without the crush of day crowds.
Afterward, grab wine and bruschetta at Enoteca Internazionale. Sit outside if the weather’s good.
Day 3 – Riomaggiore + Ferry to Portovenere
Start your day with a train ride to Riomaggiore.
From there, take the ferry to Portovenere — not technically one of the five towns, but easily one of the most beautiful spots in Liguria. Rocky cliffs, medieval fortresses, and views that look too cinematic to be real.
If you didn’t get millefoglie in Vernazza, no problem. La Focacceria da Paolo has a second location here. Yes, I went to both.
Later, head back to Monterosso for dinner at Ristorante Il Gabbiano, especially if you’re into seafood.
Day 4 – Manarola Lunch
Take the morning train to Manarola. Book lunch at Trattoria dal Billy — order seafood. Sit outside if you can.
Afterward, stroll around the town’s upper walkways or take in the view with a coffee. This is a day for wandering and not doing too much.
Come back to Monterosso and have beach drinks at Beach Bar Stella Marina.
Bonus Day – Camogli (If You’re Staying More than 5 Nights Like I Did)
If you’ve got the luxury of a fifth day — like we did — go to Camogli. It’s about an hour by train from Monterosso and absolutely worth the trip. No crowds, no Instagram cosplay, just a working fishing village with pastel buildings, a calm little harbor, and the kind of pace that forces you to slow down.
This is your coffee-and-bench day. Your long-lunch-by-the-water day. Your “maybe I should just move here” day.
If Portovenere is the dramatic prom queen, Camogli is the underrated friend you’d rather spend the afternoon with.
Final Notes
- All the towns are connected by train and walkable. You don’t need to stress.
- Monterosso is the most comfortable and best for logistics.
- Wear good shoes for hiking — the coastal trails aren’t strolls.
- Book the boat tour early. It’s 100% worth it. Book here.