Where to Eat in Rome: Places I Keep Going Back To • Anthony in Italy

Rome is one of the best food cities in the world — and one of the easiest to get wrong. Between laminated tourist menus and “authentic” spots serving everything from pasta to pizza to burgers to fried chicken, it helps to know where to actually go.

These are places I’ve personally eaten at, some of them multiple times, and would still send friends to. No gimmicks, no fluff. Just food that stuck with me. Mostly restaurants and sandwich spots. (I’ll save gelato for another post.)

Affiliate Disclaimer: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you book or purchase through them — at no extra cost to you. I only recommend places and experiences I trust or would recommend to close friends. Your support helps keep this site running. Thank you!

🍝 Rione 13 (Trastevere)

This place always brings me back. It’s one of the first Roman restaurants I recommend to friends visiting the city, and I still eat here when I’m in town. The carbonara is spot-on. The fried artichoke? Crispy, meaty, not greasy.

💡 Order: Carbonara or cacio e pepe and the fried artichoke
📍 Via Roma Libera, 19, 00153 Roma RM

Two pasta dishes from Rione 13 in Rome: a plate of cacio e pepe with zucchini flowers on the left, and a bowl of carbonara topped with crispy guanciale on the right, served with a glass of white wine — *Cacio e Pepe (left) and Carbonara from Rione 13, one of my favorite spots in Trastevere*

🍝 Antica Osteria Rugantino (Trastevere)

No frills, no gimmicks. A slow lunch here with some amatriciana hits differently. The staff is friendly and the setting feels lived-in without trying too hard.

💡 Order: Amatriciana and a bottle of wine
📍 Via della Lungaretta, 54, 00153 Roma RM

🍝 Roma Sparita (Trastevere)

Famous for their cacio e pepe in a parmesan bowl. Not just for the photos — it’s actually good. Bourdain came here for No Reservations in 2010, and I get why. The cacio e pepe here is on the dry side; if you’re looking for something creamier, this isn’t it.

💡 Order: Cacio e pepe
📍 Piazza di Santa Cecilia, 24, 00153 Roma RM
📍 Reservations recommended

Roma Sparita - bruschetta, cacio e pepe bowl, fried artichoke — *Roma Sparita tomato bruschetta, fried artichoke and wine, and cacio e pepe*

🍝 La Gattabuia (Trastevere)

Rustic vibe, hearty Roman dishes, tucked down a quiet street. A solid backup if the others are full — or just come here first and avoid the crowd stress.

💡 Order: Rigatoni alla gricia and carciofi alla romana
📍 Via del Porto, 1, 00153 Roma RM

🍝 Massimo’s Al 39 Restaurant (Near Termini)

Feels like the kind of Roman place you used to stumble into before Instagram blew everything up. The bruschetta is loaded, the carbonara is what you came for, and the fried artichoke is one of the best I’ve had. Not far from Termini station — worth a stop.

💡 Order: Bruschetta, carbonara, and the carciofo alla giudia
📍 Via Palestro, 39/a 41/a, 00185 Roma RM

Collage from Massimo al 39 in Rome showing the interior with red-checkered tablecloths, a bruschetta with diced tomatoes and basil, a plate of rigatoni carbonara with guanciale, and a crispy fried artichoke (carciofo alla giudia) — *Massimo’s Al 39 Restaurant – bruschetta, carbonara, fried artichoke.*

🧀 Masto a Testaccio (Testaccio)

Perfect aperitivo stop. I came once and now I go every time I’m in town. They also have more gourmet/creative dishes for dinnertime, and an impressive wine selection. This isn’t the place to come for traditional Roman staples.

💡 Order: Mixed antipasto board and a glass of Montepulciano
📍 Via Galvani, 39, 00153 Roma RM

A wooden table at Masto in Testaccio covered in charcuterie boards with assorted cured meats, cheeses, pesto-topped crostini, and fresh mozzarella, alongside glasses of red wine, water, and olive oil. — *Aperitivo at Masto: prosciutto, salame, mozzarella, and wine — the kind of meal that turns into dinner.*

🍝 Trattoria Luzzi (Near the Colosseum)

My first Roman cacio e pepe was here. That matters. Casual, cheap, very Roman. It can get busy — locals come for the vibe, tourists come for the location.

💡 Order: Cacio e pepe and house wine
📍 Via Celimontana, 1, 00184 Roma RM

Cacio e pepe pasta served on a white plate with a glass and bottle of Angelo Poretti lager on a checkered tablecloth at Trattoria Luzzi in Rome. — *Cacio e Pepe at Trattoria Luzzi*

🍝 Pietro al Pantheon (Centro Storico)

A cozy, candlelit trattoria just steps from the Pantheon. Warm hospitality, vintage charm, and a menu that over-delivers — this is one of those places you walk into and end up staying longer than planned. Generous portions, friendly service, and a quiet, intimate vibe that stands out in a tourist-heavy area.

💡 Order: Carbonara, bruschetta, and whatever is in season
📍 Via dei Pastini, 125, 00186 Roma RM

🥪 Cantina dei Papi (Trevi)

This location near the Trevi Fountain has come through for me multiple times. Bresaola, arugula, pecorino, and artichokes. Maybe some sundried tomatoes, I think. Definitely a great, quiet spot away from the chaos.

💡 Order: Bresaola, arugula, pecorino, artichokes
📍 Via della Panetteria, 34A, 00187 Roma RM

Bresaola sandwich with arugula, pecorino, and artichokes from Cantina dei Papi near Trevi Fountain — *Bresaola sandwich stacked with arugula, pecorino, and marinated artichokes at Cantina dei Papi*

✈️ Want to Travel Prepared? Before you go, grab my Italy Trip Checklist to make sure you’ve covered all the essentials—from packing and safety to apps I actually use. 👉 Get it here.

🥪 Dar Ciriola (Pigneto)

This area is off the beaten path — Pigneto being a cool locals-only area where most artists and musicians choose to live in Rome. This sandwich was so good I sat in silence after the first bite. Great for craft beer and taglieri too, sometimes accompanied by live music.

💡 Order: Goat cheese (I think?), eggplant, salame piccante, and arugula sandwich
📍 Via Pausania, 2a, 00176 Roma RM

Half-eaten sandwich from Dar Ciriola in Rome, filled with salame piccante (or ventricina), grilled eggplant, leafy greens, and a generous spread of creamy cheese, held over a printed menu. — Spicy salami, grilled eggplant, and some kind of creamy cheese (this was in 2021 and to be honest I don’t remember exactly what it was). Regardless, one of the best sandwiches in Rome from Dar Ciriola in Pigneto.

🥪 Mató (Piazza Bologna)

Pugliese street food — panzerotti and focaccia. It doesn’t exist for tourists, which is why it’s great. The place is small. Expect to take the food to go, or eat at one of the small bars in just a few minutes.

💡 Order: Panzerotto with turnip greens and anchovies
📍 Via Lorenzo il Magnifico, 26, 00162 Roma RM

Close-up of a Pugliese-style focaccia slice from Mató in Rome, topped with roasted red peppers, stracciatella cheese, green herb pesto, and scoops of chickpea or eggplant puree. — *Focaccia from Matò*

🍝 Osteria Della Suburra (Monti)

This one feels like Rome. Family-run, no performance, just good pasta. Also a great spot for a simple Roman secondi — I got the chicken and a side of chicoria.

💡 Order: Carbonara and the house red
📍 Via Urbana, 67, 00184 Roma RM

Two dishes from Osteria della Suburra in Rome: stewed chicken in a light sauce with a side of sautéed greens on the left, and a plate of amatriciana pasta topped with pecorino and a glass of red wine on the right, all on plaid tablecloths. — *Dinner at Osteria della Suburra: amatriciana, stewed chicken, sautéed chicoria, and a carafe of red — no notes.*

🍝 Trattoria Morgana (Monti)

Bourdain came here too. I went for the pappardelle with wild boar ragu, chicoria, and house red. Simple and exactly what I wanted.

💡 Order: Pappardelle al cinghiale and a side of chicoria
📍 Via Mecenate, 21, 00184 Roma RM

Two dishes from Trattoria Morgana in Rome: on the left, a bowl of pappardelle pasta with wild boar ragù, showing wide noodles coated in a rich, meaty sauce; on the right, a plate of sautéed chicoria (bitter greens) topped with golden slices of garlic. — *Pappardelle al cinghiale and sautéed chicoria at Trattoria Morgana — the kind of meal that doesn’t need selling.*

🍝 Il Carroccio (Piazza Bologna)

Technically Neapolitan — pizza, seafood, pasta — but their amatriciana is low-key excellent. If you’re in the area and want good spaghetti with clams or Neapolitan pizza, this is the spot.

💡 Order: Amatriciana and a glass of red
📍 Via del Carroccio, 9, 00162 Roma RM

A colorful ceramic plate filled with bucatini all’amatriciana, coated in a rich tomato sauce and topped with grated pecorino cheese, served at Il Carroccio in Rome over a green plaid tablecloth — *Amatriciana at Il Carroccio*

🚫 One to Skip

Tonnarello in Trastevere — Long lines, good but not particularly special food. I don’t get the hype.

🍷 Looking for Something Different?

If you’re up for a night that feels more like a Roman dinner party than a restaurant meal, book Eatwith Barbara. Held in her eclectic Trastevere home, it’s homemade food, flowing wine, candlelight, and the kind of hospitality that makes you feel like you’re among old friends.

💡 Expect: Homemade pastas, generous pours, candlelight, and real conversation
📍 Trastevere
🔗 Book “The Glamorous Occasion Dinner Party”

🏋️ Wrapping Up

Rome can overwhelm you with options. But if you stick to places like these — ones that don’t shout, just serve — you’ll eat well.

👉 Planning your own trip? I put together a free Italy Trip Checklist that covers everything I actually used on the ground — from apps to packing to transit tips. Grab the Free Italy Trip Checklist Here.